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Switzerland: Juf, the highest year-round inhabited village in Europe, Lago di Lei with its great dam and Marmot Educational Trail in canton Grabünden : Alpine Wonders and Whispering Peaks

Writer: 4B Travel Guide4B Travel Guide

Updated: Jan 4

Main Point: Explore the serene beauty of Juf and Valle di Lei, where the Swiss Alps offer unforgettable landscapes, peaceful escapes, and adventure.

Swap the grey November haze of the lowlands for the vibrant golden hues of Alpine fall. Picture yourself winding through valleys where rivers glisten and foggy cities fade below, eventually reaching the secluded beauty of Juf—the highest year-round settlement in Europe.

In Juf, the fresh air, the landscapes untouched, and the quietness profound. Hike the Marmot Educational Trail (Murmeltierlehrpfad), where you can get info about alpine marmots. As you walk along the well-marked trail, surrounded by the last autumn colours and the first hints of snow, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for these resilient creatures and their Alpine habitat.


On your way, a stop at the Lago di Lei Dam is a must. The mist rising off the lake, framed by rugged peaks, creates an otherworldly atmosphere. Take a break at the Refugio nearby for a hearty Alpine meal, warming up with traditional fare while soaking in the panoramic views.


Foliage in November on Valle di Lei
Foliage in November on Valle di Lei

Tour Short Description: Escape the November gloom and ascend to the serene heights of the Swiss Alps, where misty valleys give way to sunlit peaks and golden-hued landscapes. Journey through the picturesque Avers valley to the remote village of Juf, Europe’s highest year-round settlement. Explore the Marmot Learning Trail (Murmeltier-Lehrpfad), where educational trails reveal the hidden lives of Alpine marmots, and stop at the Magic Wood to see the rock climbers, continue to majestic Lago di Lei Dam for breathtaking views and a hearty meal at a nearby Restaurant Baita del Capriolo a hidden cullinary gem. Perfect for those seeking tranquillity, scenic beauty, and a touch of adventure, this Alpine getaway promises a rejuvenating retreat in the heart of Graubünden. The final destination on this trip is the Juf village.

Valle di Lei and the alpine panorama in November
Valle di Lei and the alpine panorama in November

Road Type: Narrow, winding mountain roads with breathtaking valley views, rugged cliffs, and charming high-altitude villages.


Recommended Start Point: Begin your journey in Lenzerheide, which is easily accessible by car or public transport, and head toward Juf for an unforgettable Alpine adventure.


Interests: Nature immersion, hiking, wildlife observation, cultural exploration, and serene landscapes.


Tour Type: Scenic mountain drive with opportunities for short hikes, wildlife spotting, and visits to historic Alpine villages.


Recommended Duration: 2-4 days to fully explore the route, enjoy the trails, and savour the tranquillity of the Alps.


Transport Type: Private car is ideal for flexibility, but local bus routes also provide access to key points, including Lago di Lei dam (visit also the Refugio and restaurant Baita del Capriolo) and Juf village.


Physical Effort: Easy to moderate, with strolls along trails and some gentle uphill hikes.

Adventure Type: Ideal for couples, small groups of friends, families, and solo travellers looking for a peaceful retreat.

Language: Swiss German (with English spoken in tourist-friendly areas).

Accommodation: Choose from cozy mountain inns, traditional Alpine chalets, or family-run guesthouses in villages along the route, offering warmth and comfort after a day of exploration.


For more ideas, check out travel guides showcasing the serene beauty of Graubünden, or browse photo albums capturing the misty valleys, shimmering lakes, and timeless charm of Switzerland’s Alpine heart.


 

4B Travel Guide Photos:




Description of the tour
Juf village, Graubünden canton, Switzerland
Juf village, Graubünden canton, Switzerland

The journey from Lenzerheide to Juf offers an unforgettable adventure through some of Switzerland's most breathtaking alpine landscapes. As you wind your way through the valleys and mountain passes, you’ll be captivated by the dramatic views, charming villages, and pristine natural beauty. Along the way, a stop at the Lago di Lei Dam is a must. This striking feat of engineering sits amidst towering peaks, offering a serene spot to take in the scenery and enjoy a hearty meal at the nearby Refugio and restaurant "Baita del Capriolo", where traditional alpine dishes await.


After the Lago di Lei detour, the road leads higher into the mountains, eventually reaching Juf—Europe's highest year-round inhabited village. This remote Walser settlement is steeped in history and culture, offering a glimpse into a resilient way of life. For wildlife enthusiasts, visiting the Murmeltierlehrpfad (Marmot Learning Path) near Juf is a perfect way to round out the trip. Here, you can observe these charming alpine creatures in their natural habitat and learn about their role in the ecosystem, making this journey both enriching and unforgettable.


A Scenic Journey: Lenzerheide to Juf via Lago di Lei

The drive from Lenzerheide to Juf offers an unforgettable adventure through some of Switzerland's most breathtaking Alpine landscapes. This route invites travellers to leave the highway behind and take the scenic backroads, where the journey becomes as rewarding as the destination. The well-maintained roads wind through picturesque valleys, with numerous opportunities to stop and enjoy the natural beauty.


This journey is a perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural discovery, and a touch of adventure, making it an ideal road trip for those seeking to immerse themselves in the splendour of the Swiss Alps.



Boulderparadies Magic Wood





Drive: From Thusis, drive to Andeer, then follow the road towards Juf, stopping just before the village of Ausserferrera.

Bus stop: Take the bus towards Juf and get off at Schmelzi bus station, directly opposite the campsite.

Parking area: Bodhi Camping and Gasthaus Edelweis.


Tucked away in the picturesque Avers Valley of Switzerland, Magic Wood is a world-renowned bouldering paradise. Known for its dense forest, moss-covered boulders, and serene alpine backdrop, this climbing spot offers a truly magical experience for climbers of all levels.

Walking path along the banks of the Val Ferrera River, directly across from Magic Wood.
Walking path along the banks of the Val Ferrera River, directly across from Magic Wood.

Magic Wood features a vast array of granite boulders with a variety of problems, from technical slabs to powerful overhangs, making it a hotspot for both beginners and elite climbers seeking a challenge. Its cool climate and shaded forest create ideal conditions for climbing throughout the summer, while the stunning natural surroundings offer a peaceful retreat from the hustle and bustle of daily life.


For those passionate about bouldering, Magic Wood is more than just a climbing destination—it's an adventure into one of the most enchanting landscapes in the climbing world.


Magic Wood is one of the world's premier bouldering destinations. Located in a mystical pine forest beside a rushing river, it features an abundance of granite boulders scattered throughout a stunning alpine landscape. It’s hard to find a more beautiful and inspiring climbing spot.


The best climbing season runs from May to November, with summer offering some of the coolest bouldering conditions in Europe. However, be aware that during peak season, it can get crowded, and securing a campsite spot might be challenging.


Magic Wood is a renowned bouldering destination, known for its challenging problems and hard ascents, yet it caters to climbers of all skill levels. With an extensive range of boulders, even seasoned climbers will find no shortage of projects.


Many boulders are large, with tricky landings and approaches, so multiple crash pads and spotters are essential. The high-quality granite features rough, sharp holds with excellent grip, and even after rain, the rock dries quickly, ensuring climbable lines in most conditions.


Valle di Lei


Valle di Lei is a hidden alpine gem nestled in the Swiss canton of Graubünden, near the border with Italy. This secluded valley is known for its striking natural beauty, rugged mountain landscapes, and the iconic Lago di Lei dam. The dam, built in the 1950s as part of a unique Swiss-Italian hydroelectric project, stretches across the valley, creating a vast, turquoise reservoir that extends into Italian territory. The project required an innovative cross-border agreement, making the dam and lake a symbol of international collaboration.


Nestled at over 2,000 meters on the Italian-Swiss border, the impressive Val di Lei Dam stands tall with stunning views of the surrounding Alps. Located in Switzerland’s Graubünden canton, the dam creates a large reservoir fed by the Rhine’s tributaries, flowing in from Italian territory.


Lago di Lei Dam - was once the world’s largest dam of its kind

Nestled in the heart of the Swiss Alps, the Lago di Lei Dam stands as a monumental testament to engineering prowess. Once the largest of its kind in the world, this impressive structure harnesses the power of water while blending seamlessly into its stunning alpine surroundings.

Lago di Lei Dam
Lago di Lei Dam


GoogleMaps: Drive to Lago di Lei dam.

Tunnel to access Lago di Lei Dam
Tunnel to access Lago di Lei Dam

Driving:

Take exit 26 for 'Rofla/Avers-Juf/Ferrera' on highway/fastway A13 / E43 from Chur-Thusis-San Bernardino. Then, follow the road for about 15 minutes until you reach the 'Valle di Lei' exit on the right side.


SBB/PostAuto:

  • The PostAuto stop is in Avers and is called 'Avers, Abzw. Valle di Lei.' The restaurant is reachable in about 2.5 hours via the Passo del Scengio / Furgga.

  • There is a special bus in high season to the Lago di Lei Dam

Turbine used in electricity production and Lago di Lei
Turbine used in electricity production and Lago di Lei

Pathways under the Lago di Lei Dam
Pathways under the Lago di Lei Dam


Built-in the late 1950s, this remarkable structure was once the world’s largest of its kind. Construction materials were transported via a 14 km cable car system—quite an engineering feat! The reservoir is primarily located in Italy, but the dam was constructed on land ceded by Italy to Switzerland in 1955, following diplomatic negotiations. This exchange also included an equally sized area to the north of the lake, which was transferred to Italy.



Restaurant Baita del Capriolo - Lago di Lei Dam

Baita del Capriolo is a cozy, uncomplicated Italian restaurant that offers breathtaking views of the Valle di Lei dam. Nestled on the Italian side of the dam, it is a hidden gem celebrated for its authentic Italian charm and idyllic setting.


Restaurant Baita del Capriolo - Lago di Lei Dam
Restaurant Baita del Capriolo - Lago di Lei Dam

How to get there:



Directions: From Lago di Lei Dam Parking there, it’s a 20-minute walk across the dam to the restaurant. You will cross into Italy, but no border control is available. The parking area also serves as a motorhome site.


Address: 23020 Piuro, Province of Sondrio, Italy

Info Website: Restaurant Baita del Capriolo - Lago di Lei Dam : https://www.viamala.ch/de/kulinarik/gastronomie/restaurant-baita-del-capriolo



By Car

  • Take the A13/E43, exit at Rofla/Avers-Juf/Ferrera (Exit 26). Follow signs to Valle di Lei for about 15 minutes.

Parking Free parking is available at the Valle di Lei dam information center.


Delicious dishes at Restaurant Baita del Capriolo - Lago di Lei Dam
Delicious dishes at Restaurant Baita del Capriolo - Lago di Lei Dam

  • Cuisine: Simple yet delicious Italian dishes.

  • Ambiance: Inviting, with a rustic and authentic Italian atmosphere.

  • Scenery: Panoramic views of the Valle di Lei dam and its stunning surroundings.

Operating Hours

Summer Season

  • Monday: Closed

  • Tuesday to Thursday: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM

  • Friday and Saturday: 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM

  • Sunday: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM

  • Sunday: 10:00 AM – 9:00 PM

Winter Season: Closed


 


Marmot Educational Trail (Murmeltierlehrpfad Avers)

Discover the Secret Life of Alpine Marmots


Location: from Loretschhus (Avers-Juppa) to Alp Bergalga

Time: plan for at least 3 hours 

Length: 3km (one way)


The Marmot Educational Trail (Murmeltier-Lehrpfad) in Avers-Bergalga is a unique experience for nature enthusiasts and families alike. Located in one of the most marmot-rich regions of the Alps, this 3-kilometer trail, stretching from Loretschhus (Avers-Juppa) to Alp Bergalga, features 11 educational stations. Along the way, visitors can learn fascinating details about the lives of marmots, including their behaviour, family structure, and adaptations to their Alpine environment.


The Marmot Educational Trail offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of Alpine marmots, guiding visitors through 11 interactive stopping points nestled in the pristine Swiss Alps. This family-friendly trail reveals the habits, habitats, and history of these charming rodents, who have thrived in alpine environments for millennia.


Learn about the marmots' evolutionary journey from North America to Europe, their intricate social structures, and their unique adaptations for survival, such as hibernation strategies and complex burrow systems. Along the way, you’ll encounter breathtaking mountain vistas, making this an unforgettable blend of nature and education. Whether you’re a wildlife enthusiast or simply curious, the trail provides a deep appreciation of these industrious creatures and their vital role in the alpine ecosystem.

To maximize the experience, plan for at least 3 hours to fully explore the trail and spot marmots in their natural habitat. Early morning or late afternoon visits are ideal, as marmots often rest during midday. The path is family-friendly, stroller-accessible, and suitable for visitors with mobility aids. At the trailhead, enjoy amenities like a well-equipped grill station and a playground.


The Murmeltier-Lehrpfad is a perfect blend of education and adventure, offering a close encounter with Alpine wildlife amidst stunning mountain scenery.:


The Murmeltier-Lehrpfad
The Murmeltier-Lehrpfad


Alpine Marmots are diurnal and typically live in groups of up to 20 individuals. In winter, the entire group hibernates together in a shared burrow.

The Murmeltier-Lehrpfad in November
The Murmeltier-Lehrpfad in November

The ancestors of Alpine Marmots migrated from North America to Asia around 2.5 million years ago, eventually spreading to Europe during the ice ages. Today, they are found throughout the Alps. In France and Italy, their distribution is less precisely mapped. A subspecies also exists in the Carpathian Mountains in Romania, while the population in the Pyrenees was introduced.


More info in English about Marmots on the official viamala.ch website under https://www.viamala.ch/sites/viamala/files/d7/11_stationen_english.pdf



The detailed hike information and maps (German): https://www.maps.viamala.ch/s/GZhHE



Juf village - one of the highest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe

Juf is a small, remote village in the canton of Graubünden, Switzerland, known as one of the highest permanently inhabited settlements in Europe, at an elevation of around 2,126 meters (6,975 feet) above sea level.



Juf village, Graubünden canton, Switzerland
Juf village, Graubünden canton, Switzerland

Nestled in the upper Avers Valley, Juf is part of the municipality of Avers and is surrounded by stunning alpine scenery, rugged mountains, and pristine landscapes that make it a unique destination for outdoor enthusiasts and those seeking solitude.

Juf Region and the high peaks
Juf Region and the high peaks

The village has a year-round population of only a few dozen residents, preserving a strong sense of local culture and traditional Swiss mountain life. Despite its isolation, Juf attracts visitors for activities like hiking, skiing, and exploring the history of the Walser people, who settled in this region in the 13th century. This secluded setting offers a rare glimpse into life in the high Alps, where nature, tradition, and resilience come together in a breathtaking setting.

Juf village, Graubünden canton, Switzerland
Juf village, Graubünden canton, Switzerland
Juf and the Walser Legacy

The Walser people are a unique Alpine ethnic group with roots tracing back to the Valais region in southwestern Switzerland. In the 13th century, due to population pressures and changing economic conditions, groups of Walsers began migrating across the Alps, establishing high-altitude settlements across Switzerland, Italy, Austria, and Liechtenstein. The village of Juf in Graubünden is one of the most isolated and highest of these Walser settlements, and its inhabitants maintain a distinct cultural and linguistic heritage.


Mailbox in Juf
Mailbox in Juf

The Walser people are known for their resilience and ability to adapt to challenging mountainous environments. They brought with them agricultural knowledge, construction techniques, and a lifestyle that allowed them to thrive in remote, high-altitude areas where few others could settle. Historically, their communities were largely self-sufficient, relying on pastoral farming, cattle raising, and, in many cases, traditional crafts. The language spoken by the Walser people, a unique dialect of German, is still heard in some communities today, though it is slowly diminishing.


In Juf, the Walser legacy is still evident in the architecture, agricultural practices, and cultural traditions preserved by the local people. Today, the heritage of the Walser people is celebrated not only for its cultural value but also as a symbol of adaptation and survival in some of the most extreme habitable landscapes of Europe.


Conclusion
Juf reagion panorama
Juf reagion panorama

The Juf region and Valle di Lei offer an unparalleled alpine experience, where nature's beauty meets serenity and adventure. Whether you're exploring the highest village in Europe or immersing yourself in the rugged landscapes of Valle di Lei, these captivating destinations promise unforgettable memories, peaceful escapes, and a true connection with the Swiss Alps.






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